Belize to Guatemala border crossing

 

We left the campsite behind in San Ignacio, headed to the border, full of anticipation! This was the start of our journey through Central America, and we were excited! We got an early start, ready for anything we may encounter with the crossing. It should be a fairly easy crossing as we had been through this border a couple of times before.

As we pulled up to crossing check point, we were waived into parking spots along the side, to allow us to get out and do the necessary procedures.

Leaving Belize
Leaving Belize

First up was to take our window sticker from the window, showing our Belize insurance policy. In Belize, you are required to purchase insurance while there. It is fairly inexpensive, and coverage is minimal, but its a major deal if you do not have current insurance on your vehicle, and you get caught. I had a friend who had this happen. He called me upset from the police check point, because they were wanting to haul him to jail. They are serious about the infraction. Fortunately, after I spoke with him, and my friend negotiated with them, he had to pay a “fine”, and then sent him on his way, told to get insurance. Lesson learned, even though it wasn’t my friends car, he was the responsible party driving it.

Belize exit fee
Belize exit fee

After suspending the insurance, because we planned to drive back through, we headed back to the border crossing building. The next stop, was to pay the exit fee for leaving Belize. This is a $37.50 bze fee.

The exchange rate in Belize is $2.00 bze to $1.00 USD. We received the receipt of payment and headed to the next window, where the receipt was checked, and our passports stamped.

Belize exit fee
Belize exit fee

We had a vehicle, so we had one more stop to make before leaving Belize. There is a wooden door between the reception desk and the afore mentioned window. There are no signs. marking the door, but you will need to go through the door to the other side of the building. This is where you go to the Customs counter. He will stamp the passport and vehicle permit, showing that you have taken the vehicle back out of the country. Make sure you bring the car permit, your passport, and  vehicle registration.

Vehicle customs
Vehicle customs

As you leave the building you will be approached by the money changers. These are guys that make their living exchanging money from USD, pesos, or Belize dollars to Guatemalan. money. This is a legitimate service, and there are no ATM’s. The exchange is set, and there isn’t any bartering on the exchange. At the time we crossed, it was offered at 7 to 1. This is not the full exchange, but the difference is what the exchangers make.

Now, back to our vehicles, we pulled up to the exit of Belize. We showed proof of paying the exit fee, and our passports, before passing through. We were officially out of Belize, in no mans land, just before entering Guatemala!

The border
The border

 

Straight ahead was a large double bay building, open at both ends. You pull into the left bay, and slowly drive through. Make sure your windows are up, as this is the pesticide spraying required to enter Guatemala. Once through the building, pull over to the left hand side along the building. Take a mental note of your license plate number, and walk back across the street to the little white building with a glass window. You pay for the pesticide spraying here. It was 18 Q (Q is the abbreviation for the Guatemalan currency, Quetzals). That equated to approximately 2.50 USD. The exchange rate is about $7.75 Q to $1.00/USD.

Pest spray
Pest spray

Once you get your receipt, you walk back across the street and enter into the line to enter Guatemala. You will need your pesticide receipt, passport, and vehicle title and registration. The first line is very simple, you just present your passport, tell the agent where you are headed in Guatemala, and they stamp your passport. The next thing you need to do is ask for a foto copia. They will send you around the corner to a store to make copies. It cost 1Q per copy. or if you have a copy of your passport with you, which I recommend to carry several copies of your passport, and drivers license, and title with you, you can just have the agent stamp it along with your passport, and you can avoid the hassle of getting another copy. What they are looking for is a copy of your passport with the Guatemala stamp in it.

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Now you go to the next line to your left, where you will fill out paperwork to bring your vehicle into the country. This process is the slowest, as they must fill out all of the info for the vehicle, you must fill out some additional paperwork, and then they go out to look at your vehicle. This probably took 15 minutes this time around. Once they returned from looking at the vehicle, we were given a paper to carry over to the cashiers window behind us. This window is guarded by the military, bearing an assault rifle. He also acts as the liaison for the line. Actually there are several different officials around bearing menacing guns, but they are all friendly, and there for your protection.

Passport stamp
Passport stamp

We paid 160Q, and then went back to the car permit line, where we showed the receipt. The agent walked with us to the vehicles, and installed our actual sticker permit in the window. We were finished with the formal border crossing.

Quetzales "Q"
Quetzales “Q”

Back in the vehicle, we made our way out of the parking area to a barrier, where another border agent waited to see our paperwork. They looked at our passport again and vehicle permit, moved the barrier and waived us through.

Last check!
Last check!

We crossed the bridge into Guatemala, where we approached a toll booth. I have actually waived to the toll collector as I drove through without paying in the past. I had heard it was an unofficial gringo tax. I was right behind a local who just drove on through this time as well. However, the agent stepped in the road, in front black ng my access. I was told it was 50Q for the bridge crossing. I asked why the car in front of me didn’t pay. She acted like she didn’t understand and said 50Q again. When I pressed the issue, she ran over and dropped the barrier in front of my vehicle so I couldn’t pass. She came back and said I needed to pay 50 Q. Reluctantly, I began digging up change. By this time, the line was backing up. We finally paid the fee, using USD, Belize dollars, and Quetzals. At least she had to work for that fee! We were officially in Guatemala!

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Posted by Scott Woodhams

Back roads Belize

border, we made good time driving through Spanish Lookout ( a primarily Mennonite community), and then on to Placencia, a great beach town.

Mennonite homes
Mennonite homes
Rotisserie Chicken
Rotisserie Chicken

We spent a few days catching up with some friends in Placencia. We also took the time to put our extra belongings in a storage unit. The plan was to head South through Central America. Anything that wasn’t needed along the trip was going to be left for later. We had packed an overland fridge on the plane, so I was looking forward to setting it up. You just can’t beat having access to ice cold drinks and food available whenever you want it.

Ironman 4x4 fridge
Ironman 4×4 fridge

 

One of our friends who lives in Chicago, also owns a few condos on the beach in a upscale resort called Belize Ocean club. He offered to let us stay in one of the condos for the 5 days we were preparing for our trip. We were spoiled with all of the amenities and things to do at the resort. It was so nice staying right on the beach and having spectacular sunrises each morning, from our balcony, overlooking the Caribbean.

Balcony view
Balcony view

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Sunrise
Sunrise

We visited some of our favorite restaurants, like Mangos and the Placencia Hotel. Belize Ocean club features a pool party on the beach each Sunday afternoon. The live DJ entertained the guests, spinning dance tunes pool side. They also offer free use of their kayaks, and other beach toys. All in all, it is an event that the locals and visitors enjoy each week.

Singing Sands
Singing Sands
Belizian breakfast "fry jack"
Belizian breakfast “fry jack”

We stopped by the church we attend in Placencia on Sunday evening and had a great time seeing a lot of our friends there. Although it just wasn’t the same, with a few other friends who were not there. It was nice to be welcomed back and missed by everyone.

This time around, we didn’t do much site seeing as we were focusing on getting ready for the exciting trip we had planned. The loose plans, including traveling through Guatamala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and possibly as far as the Panama Canal. We planned to travel with Bernard and Tammy, some friends that we had traveled with before. Each couple has a Land Rover outfitted for overland journeys, including rooftop tents. It is nice to caravan for any potential break down and safety issues.

Roof top tents
Roof top tents

Finally we were ready! It was going to be tough leaving the luxury accommodations we had been spoiled staying in, and exchanging it for the roof top lifestyle, but the trip was going to be one in a lifetime. So we hit the road, and headed towards the border of Belize and Guatemala.

Passport
Passport
Hit the road
Hit the road

Our GPS coordinates took us within 100 yards of the first nights stop over, San Ignacio. We pulled into the grass parking area and was promptly greeted by the owner, Xavier. He told us to make ourselves at home. Due to the upcoming festivities, Belize National day, the campgrounds was fuel. of people cooking, playing, and lounging. We were told not to worry, the people would be leaving in a few hours. It was pretty cool to see the locals interacting with their families, a water balloon fight, dogs chasing each h other, and the men sleeping lazily in the hammocks under the palapa.

Ready for the parade
Ready for the parade

We were told of a good restaurant where we could walk to for some lunch. It was excellent food, good prices, and friendly service. The waitress told us we were just in time to enjoy the parade that would be going through town. We finished up, and headed back towards our campsite, as the parade would pass right by us there. As an added extra bonus, we were conveniently located across the street from the town market. We perused the fruits and vegetables and waited for the parade to start. The locals began pouring in, lining the sides of the streets in anticipation of the festivities. We walked back across the street to a “fast food” joint and ordered a water.

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The parade waltzed by with people dressed up, flags waiving every where, and lots of laughter and fun. It was quite short by the standard of parades I was used to ,but it was fun any way.

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We settled back into the campsite, now much quieter with the local families having left. The owner introduced to some of his friends that were visiting, and we shared off road stories, and their adventures of driving Land rovers in the wild Belize wilderness. We all sat under the palapa roof, which included electricity to plug our fans in for sleeping, and WiFi.

Getting hungry again, we decided to order a pizza from a Facebook friend that delivered pizzas in San Ignacio. They made a special pizza and delivered it after hours to our campsite, where we finally met them in person, and enjoyed some conversation. Finally, we were able try some of this self proclaimed’, best pizza in Belize. We were not disappointed, it was very good, and hit the spot.

After a semi restless night sleeping in the tents, due to some residual partying in the streets (mainly loud music in the distance), we got up and began taking camp down. I decided to go for a run around town, and then we stopped at a taco stand that offered breakfast burritos. With camp packed up, and our bellies full, we set out for the border crossing a few miles away.

 

Belize Border crossing-Santa Elana

After spending the night in Chetumal Mexico, we were up bright and early ready to cross the border into Belize. Chetumal is  the last really populated city you will encounter as you head over the border. This is where it is recommended to stock up on any necessary supplies, as many things are not as readily available in Belize to purchase.  We loaded up and headed to Mcdonalds. This is a great place to get free wifi, and of course a familiar breakfast is nice also. After sending messages out to family, of our safe arrival, and eating, we decided to hit  Wal Mart to grab some last minute things. We saw that they were building a new Home Depot! This will really be great particularly for those living just across theborder in Belize.

People of Walmart
People of Walmart

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We grabbed some weights to work out while traveling, a campsite folding table, some snacks, and a few other items, and headed on our way. One last stop at the Pemex to fill up is recommended before you cross the border. Fuel is a little over $4.00/gallon U.S. In Belize, it is nearly $6.00/gallon U.S.

Pemex-OXXO
Pemex-OXXO

It is a short 5-10 minute trek to the border to leave Mexico. The signs are well marked. Its obvious, but in Spanish, Belize is spelled “Belice”. Coming from Chetumal, you will head back in the direction toward Cancun, where you will see the sign to exit just before a bridge.

Belice!
Belice!

At that point, you  are a mile or two away. As you pull up to the Mexico border, the directions are well marked. There is a small building to your right, that you will drive up to, where you will show your passport, and pay your exit fee of $25.00/ per person, U.S. dollars. They will take Pesos, or U.S. dollars. I am not sure about Belize dollars. He will waive you through after paying your fee.

DSCF0017 Leaving Mexico

If you have driven through Mexico, you most likely will have received a car permit for your vehicle. They issue a sticker to be applied in the center of your windshield, along with the actual permit paperwork. Keep this paperwork handy, as it is usually asked for at any of the stops in Mexico and when you leave Mexico. Most likely, you will not be informed by the person taking the exit fee, that if you are not returning to Mexico, or it will be a while, you will need to turn in your vehicle permit.

Mexico Car Permit

The process for turning your permit in is pretty easy. After leaving the booth and paying your fee, turn to the left and park at the building across the street to your left. Take your passport and vehicle permit papers in with you. If you paid for the permit deposit with cash initially, you will be issued cash back. If you paid with a credit card, or debit card, you will be credited the deposit back to your account. This fee is determined by the year of your vehicle. It ranges from $200-$400/ U.S. dollars, and is fully refundable.

Car Permit
Car Permit

The attendant will walk out to your vehicle to take a picture of your vin number to confirm it is the same vehicle as you brought in. At this time, either they will ask you or do it themselves, to remove the sticker from your window. The permit is good up until 6 months. You are able to leave your vehicle in Mexico even if you personally leave the country during the 6 months. Just make sure, you remember to turn the permit in within the 6 months or you will lose the deposit and be banned from bringing any other vehicles into the country.

Belize Sign
Belize Sign

You have officially “checked out” of Mexico! Now drive across the bridge to Belize, through no mans land until you come to a split in the road. Straight ahead is for cargo. All others turn to the left and follow the road to another stop. Look immediately to your left. There is a little white portable building with a covered front porch. Make sure to stop here and get your vehicle sprayed. It will cost $11.00 Belize  ($5.50 U.S). They accept U.S. dollars or Belize dollars. Dont forget to stop, or they will make you return to get it done when you go to cross. There are some exceptions, but just get it done. It takes 5 minutes, including paying for it.

Pesticide $11.00 BZ
Pesticide $11.00 BZ

Belize, straight ahead! Now leave the spray station and head toward the border crossing building. Ordinarily there is a parking lot. When we crossed, they were working on them, so parking is random. We pulled up almost to the border check point and double parked on the right. The border agent waived us into the customs building.

No Foto!
No Foto!

As we entered, I tried to snap a picture, to which, the customs official said, “No Photos”! So, sorry the picture is blurry. It was dropped a little premature. You walk straight up to the window and show them your passport. They will ask you how long you intend to stay, and where you are headed. They offer up to 30 days, without a renewal. After you get the stamp, you walk between the glass booths to another counter. Here you will show your passport again. We were asked for our registration, original title, and license plate number. They issued a vehicle permit for the same amount of days we were to be in Belize (up to 30). We were informed, and I didnt know this, but if you will only be in Belize, 3 or less days, you do not need a vehicle permit. They will write in your passport that you have a vehicle, but no permit required.

They do a separate stamp in your passport indicating you have brought  a vehicle in. You must sign a form that you understand you may not sell, rent, or leave your vehicle in Belize without paying duty. There are no fees for the temporary permit. No duty is required if you intend to bring the vehicle back out of the country. You will need to update your vehicle permit each time you have your passport stamped(each 30 days).

Vehicle stamp
Vehicle stamp

At this time. you are asked to bring your luggage in to be inspected. Each time we have crossed, we always tell them, “Our vehicle is very full due to travelling”. So far every time, they will make an exception and come out to our vehicle to inspect. We had to open doors and our luggage. We were issued the permit and sent on our way.

Open Door inspection
Open Door inspection

We jumped back in the Rover and drove it 50 feet to the checkpoint, where we were asked for our passport and vehicle permit again. Again we were asked to open the doors to let the official inspect. I made friendly small talk, which I have found to be extremely helpful in all border crossings, and we were told to have a nice day. We made it!

Passport
Passport

One last thing before enjoying the exploration of the beautiful country of Belize. You MUST buy insurance. It is the law, and they are more serious about that than actual crimes committed. You can be taken straight to jail if you do not purchase insurance, and your home country insurance will not suffice. We always buy immediatley after crossing at the large building directly in front of you after passing the check point, Insurance Corporation of Belize. The price is reasonable, and drops if you purchase longer coverage. Its about $30 for a week of coverage. Now you are ready, GO!

Belize Insurance
Belize Insurance

Next up: Placencia Belize!

Do NOT travel the roads of Mexico after dark!

We flew back into Cancun, Mexico to reunite with our overland outfitted Landrover.  A friend had let us leave it at her house for the two months while we were back visiting the States. When we finally pulled up to see it in good condition and ready to go, my heart leapt!

Scott & Angela
Scott & Angela

We were definitely ready to get back on the road. We loaded up our luggage, and new over lander fridge/freezer we had brought on the plane, hopped in, turned the key, nothing. I mean absolutely nothing. There wasn’t a light on the dash or overhead. How could this be? We had installed not one, but two batteries before our previous trip.

Dual batteries

Fortunately, we had installed a dual battery system, so that in the event one battery was drained, the other could still start the engine. I popped the hood, and turned the other battery back on. HONK, HONK, HONK! The alarm was going off. Well after a little playing around with resetting the alarm, all was well and we were able to start the car. There was no indication of any tampering with the vehicle.  I am so glad we had that back up battery. I will have to look into why one of the batteries was dead though. All I found suspicious so far, was a couple of bare wires that had heated up running my off road lights.

Cancun Parking
Cancun Parking

 

We said our good byes and hopped on the road headed to Chetumal Mexico. This is a town in Mexico on the border of Belize. Our plan was to drive the 5 hours and stay the night before crossing the border to Belize in the morning. The only drawback, was after playing around with the battery issue, we didn’t set out until 3 pm. It gets dark this time of year around 7 pm. I am not fond of driving after dark in Mexico, largely due to the poorly lit roads, unmarked traffic lanes, bicycles, and pedestrians, not to mention, the riff Raff like to come out at night also. We pressed on without any delays or incidences. The roads were very smooth and well marked. Being this is such a touristy side of Mexico, the roads were wide, well maintained, and marked. This was a pleasant surprise, compared to many. We stopped for gas at the Pemex. They did not accept credit cards at this location, though many do throughout Mexico. Fortunately we were able to find an ATM or “cajero” inside the OXXO, a national convenience store. The ATM fee was steep, $69.90 pesos (about $5.00 U.S.).

Pemex Gas
Pemex Gas

 

Back on the road, it was smooth sailing’ and very little traffic by this time. For the majority of the trip, the roads were 4 lanes wide with a divided highway. A fair amount of section in the middle was only 2 lanes. It was getting to be around 7 pm, and dusk was setting in quickly. You could see the sky, but darkness was closing in. I have to admit, you hear so many times, “don’t travel on the roads after dark in Mexico”. It almost builds an anxiety inside if you are caught out in the dark. We still had about an hour of travel left, so it was wearing a little on me. Do we try to find somewhere closer to stop, or press on to our know destination? We chose the latter. I’m glad we did. The roads were really impressive, with reflectors marking the lanes, reflective signs, and no pot holes! The traffic was enough not to feel alone and desolate. We can do this!

Hwy 307
Hwy 307

We rolled into Chetumal a little after 8 pm. There was lots of activity, as it was Saturday night. Vendors offering grilled food, and other goodies along the streets, along bright decorative displays overhead on the street lamps, of “Viva Mexico”. September is the month of Mexican Independence, so the fiestas had already started. We did it! We had travelled the roads of Mexico after dark and survived! I really don’t recommend it due to the reasons mentioned before, however, it was good to know it didn’t mean instantaneous disaster.

Viva Mexico Chetumal
Viva Mexico Chetumal

We had already had a hotel picked out from our last visit, called Hotel Marlone. For one reason, it is a very nice facility with some English speaking employees. The other reason, we had left two of our phone chargers in the room, and hoped to retrieve them on this trip. They also have a secure gated courtyard to park in. We were not disappointed when we arrived. We were greeted by some friendly smiling faces, directing us into our parking spot, and offering to check us in.

14 - 3

 

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14 - 2

After locating the English speaking manager, we were given our phone chargers. She had remembered speaking to us two months prior and labled and set them aside. She also informed us that they were setting up for a private party, that she was sure would be a very loud fiesta. She offered us a room up on the 3rd level, but she was confident we would hear the party goers from our room. She offered to let us leave our vehicle secured and stay at their sister property across the street, which we did. A/C, hot showers, nice room, and WiFi! Well most of that was true….while we did see a WiFi connection, we never were able to connect. Oh well, one night without being connected, wouldn’t kill us. Tomorrow morning, we cross the border. Watch for the next post as I will give the play by play on getting out of Mexico and into Belize, hassle free.

Posted by Scott Woodhams